New Race Shop in North Texas : X-Factor Racing

If you live in the Texas area and need work done on your Spec Miata, checkout X-Factor Racing.  Chris offers a variety of services from race prep, engine builds, to full race car builds from the ground up.

Race Report: 2015 Hallett Summer Shootout

Well that was an up and down weekend.

I’ll leave out the fiasco associated with the new RV except to say: it started with the trailer lights not working in the driveway, and continued right through the full-on Oklohoma thunderstorm raining into the open hole in the bathroom roof on the drive home.  <sigh>  Sometimes there are signs, but you have to listen very carefully..even when they are screaming in your freakin’ ear.

Also, a big thanks goes out to all the family members that came out to watch the race on Saturday.  It was fun to have such a big cheering section.  I could see y’all standing by the fence as I drove by approaching turn 1.

Continue reading Race Report: 2015 Hallett Summer Shootout

Fire Suppression System

Well, its time to get ready to race.  I’m going to NASA comp school at the end of January.  I’ve had a fire system for a few months, in inventory.  Since I have the rest of the year off, I’ve been working on the install.  I bought the SPA Technique 4L alloy manual pull system.  It comes with 6 nozzles that spray in a 90 degree cone pattern.  The idea is that 3 nozzles go in the engine compartment and three in the driver’s cockpit.  However, the Miata has the gas tank directly behind the driver.  So, I decided to place one nozzle in the trunk aimed at the exposed portion of the gas tank and the filler neck.

All of the mounting brackets are handmade out of 1/16” thick 1.5×1.5 inch aluminum angle.  I cut them all to shape and then formed them over some roll cage tubing scrap using a clamp and a hammer.

20141214_104008 20141214_104654

Continue reading Fire Suppression System

Beer Temp Controller

Parts needed to make controller:

  • 3 gang old work deep electrical box
  • 3 gang decora style cover plate
  • STC-1000 temperature controller
  • 2 decora 110VAC outlets
  • 18 Gage stranded wire in a red, blue, green, black, and white
  • Wire nuts
  • 10 Amp utility cord with 3 prong male end
  • 1/2” emt strain relief

Continue reading Beer Temp Controller

Alignment jig and first alignment

So, I made my own alignment jig.  Its a clone of a well known string setup.  These brackets hang off of the inner trunk and hood lips.  Their whole point is to hang a bar down at axel height at the front and rear of the car.  The bars are designed to have grooves on the ends to hold a string.  The grooves are exactly the same width in the front and rear.  A string is placed in the groove front to rear so that the strings left and right are exactly parallel to each other.  Once the strings are lined up with the axels, they are exactly parallel to the car’s axis.

P1010036

Continue reading Alignment jig and first alignment

Intake

So, its been a very long time since I had anything to post!  Months and months.  Unfortunately, this same dearth in posts represents a similar dearth in actual activity on or with the racecar.  I won’t bore you with the excuses…lots of work related things.

Anyway, I bought an SP Induction Systems SPX2 intake, and finally got a chance to install it.   Its a pretty simple install, not exactly a transmission.  Anyway here’s the assemble and the junk that it replaces.  The airflow path in the standard miata is quite odd, and is very restrictive.

P1010020P1010021

Continue reading Intake

MSR – Cresson : Coaching

A last minute opportunity to drive at MSRC came up for January 2nd, 2012.  I was able to go, and it was an “educational” day.  Another friend had given me some of his old tires.  The story of the day is really a separate post that should include video footage of the “incidents”.  But, suffice it to say that I “fought” the new tires until I finally flat-spotted a tire. 

Anyway, an experienced racer, Craig Janssen, offered to review my video and data with me and offer some pointers on how to improve.  We met at his office the other day.  We spent 2 hours talking things over, splitting the time 50/50 between big-picture stuff, and track specific discussions.  It was a tremendously educational experience.  Lots of things to think about as I further review the video and data.

Below are my notes from the discussion.  After transcribing these, I sent it back to Craig.  He further expanded on my notes in red.

It was an exceptionally generous thing for him to do, on a Monday night with a very busy schedule.  All I can do is hope to be able to return the favor to someone else someday in the future.   Maybe reading my own learning experiences will help someone coming up the ladder behind me.  If you are reading this a year or two from “now” and have questions or want some help, please fee free to comment here.  My email (or door) will always be open, and I’ll share anything I think I know.

Continue reading MSR – Cresson : Coaching

MSRCresson: 2012/01/02

Yesterday was my first time in my own car on any R-compound tires (RA-1 takeoffs). It wasn’t pretty:

  • one 4-wheel off — rear end tried to come around, saved it…realized I wasn’t going to keep it on track, let it run straight into flat grassy area (outside of wagonwheel)
  • one 2-wheel off (the front two on wrong side of the apex curbing) — turned in too abruptly, broke rear end loose, slid sideways through apex CONE before car corrected back to straight (bigbend)
  • one 180 degree spin — missed heel-toe, broke rear end loose spun to outside of track. (horseshoe)
  • one flat-spot — got greedy on entry into turn 1. (rattlesnake entry)
  • I had numerous near-misses that I did manage to save.

Basically, both early morning sessions were like driving on ice, and I just didn’t respect the situation enough (or understand it well enough to know the right approach).  Here’s the video:

 

Continue reading MSRCresson: 2012/01/02

Benjamin’s Special

A friend wants a batch of beer.  He gave me an empty keg…only seems fair.  Besides, any excuse to make a batch of beer! 

Ben is NOT adventurous when it comes to beer.  He wants a higher alcohol, but not to much in the way of taste.  He’s a bud/miller/coors type of drinker…so, I can’t venture too far from that. 

Now, I can’t really make a BMC clone…I just don’t have it in me.  You might as well just buy a BMC as make one.  Its actually kinda difficult to make a beer similar to BMC—VERY low flavor, and moderate alcohol, and VERY light color.  These are a little incompatible with each other, and require levels of process control that are 1) hard to achieve, 2) Not much fun…even if you CAN succeed.  However, I owe it to Ben to stay somewhat true to his request. 

So, in the interest of staying “light” I lowered the grain-bill 9 1/2 lbs of grain.  Mostly, US 2-row…with 16% Vienna to provide a touch of flavor “complexity”.  US 2-row is almost as light in flavor as you can get (and color too).  I added the vienna to provide just a touch of interest.  It is also a fairly light grain, and I’m only using 1 1/2 lbs….but, it should be enough to have an impact.   The malts should contribute an original gravity of 1.042 SG based on my usual efficiency.  This is a moderately low OG, and should keep the flavor profile on the lighter side.  To further keep the flavor on the lower side, I mashed at a low temperature. 

I mashed in at 150 (actually moderate)…but, stirring brought this down to 146 within the first 30 minutes, and finished at 144 after a total of 80 minutes of mashing.  The early 150 should have allowed alpha-amylase time to break apart the starches into smaller pieces.  Since this was only for the first 10 minutes or so, the beta-amylase would not have had time to denature.  Stirring during the first 15 minutes brought the temp down below 148 which favors the beta.  The prolonged mash below 148 (ending at 145) hopefully gave the beta sufficient time to make a highly fermentable wort with very little dextrin content.

In order to provide the elevated alcohol I added simple table sugar to the boil: 2 1/4 lbs of it.  If this were for myself, I would have used amber or dark candi sugar (inverted table sugar cooked to a medium or dark color).  The darker sugar would have introduced some more carmel type flavors.  But, again…Ben is boring.  There’s a trick here…yeast are funny about table sugar (sucrose).  Once yeast begin to consume sucrose they stop consuming maltose (the sugar from malted barley).  However, if you boil sugar in water and acid (pH around 5-ish) the sucrose will separate (or invert) into glucose and fructose.  Yeasts can consume these simple sugars without affecting their preference for maltose.  Wort pH is low enough (5.4-ish) to invert the sucrose.  The pH is higher than is ideal, but with a 60 minute boil there is also plenty of time for the slower reaction.  Since, I didn’t want any carmelizing of the sugars this was sufficient for Ben’s beer.

If (when) I make this beer again, I’ll switch to Amber invert sugar.  This can be made on the stove-top by adding lemon juice and a little water to the sugar…cooking to the desired color.  I may even try a “dark” candi-sugar variation.  Candi-sugars are traditional ingredients in Belgian beers.

Keeping with the “low” flavor theme I held the hops down to 14 IBUs…for an BU/SG ratio of 1/3rd.  This is on the low side of “balanced” (which would be a ratio of 1/2).  However, breaking with the low flavor theme…I chose to get this bitterness by using 2 oz of Noble Hops (Hallertauer, New Zealand) with 15 minutes remaining in the boil.  That’s a fair amount of hops for a ~6 gallon batch.  If I’d boiled for a full 60 minutes I could have gotten the same bitterness (and almost no unique flavor) from half as much hops (only 1 oz).  But, where’s the fun in that?  So, the late edition of a large-ish quantity of hops is my one break from what Ben asked for.  That’s okay….Hallertauer has a nice flavor that shouldn’t make Ben cringe.  The boy needs to venture somewhat afield, eh?  Life is about new experiences. 😉

From a recipe point of view that’s about it.  For me, there are a few things about this batch that are new:

  1. I’ve never brewed with table sugar/candi-sugar. 
  2. I’m only using my new brew kettle (the Keg that Ben gave me), for the second time.
  3. I got a pH meter for Christmas…so this is my first time to be able to measure and control the pH of my mash.
  4. I made a ‘hop spider” to contain my leaf hops in the boil.  I didn’t used to need one, because my boil pot was small enough that I could lift it and pour the wort through a strainer.  But, the new kettle is too big to do that with.  So, the hop spider keeps the hops in a LARGE bag so that I can remove them from the wort at the end of the boil. 
  5. I have a temperature controller that I can now use to control the fermentation temperature. 

The final two pieces to this puzzle is the fermentation.  Humans don’t make beer….we make wort.  Yeast make beer from the wort.  Our contribution to the beer making is controlling the temperature that the yeast work at.  Yeast create a lot of flavors.  You can control this in two ways: 1) the yeast strain chosen to do the work, 2) the temperature of the fermentation.  The higher the temperature, the more “flavor” they produce.  The flavors they produce at higher temperatures are typically called “fruity”: apple, peach, pear, banana, etc.  Keeping with the low flavor theme I’ve opted for a VERY low fermentation temp of 59-65 F.

I “grow” my own yeast.  At the moment I only have room for two yeasts: english ale yeast, and American ale yeast.  English ale is strong in unique flavors and American is known for its “cleanness”. Again, I elected the low flavor variant…American. 

The beer is 4 days into the fermentation.  I tasted it 24 hours after I started it.  I got a noticeable grapefruit taste.  Not strong or overpowering, but noticeable.  The flavors were very clean.  I’m excited to see how this turns out.

 

 

Bejamin Special
Type: All Grain Date: 12/27/2011
Batch Size (fermenter): 6.00 gal Brewer: Tom Hampton
Boil Size: 7.14 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)
End of Boil Volume 6.50 gal Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Final Bottling Volume: 6.00 gal Est Mash Efficiency 76.2 %
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Taste Rating(out of 50): 30.0
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Ingredients
 

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
2.00 tsp Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1
8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 64.6 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 3 12.1 %
10.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 5.1 %
2 lbs 4.0 oz Cane (Beet) Sugar (0.0 SRM) Sugar 5 18.2 %
2.00 oz Hallertauer [4.80 %] – Boil 15.0 min Hop 6 14.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale Yeast Blend (Hampton Labs #WLP060) [50.28 ml] Yeast 7

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.061 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.060 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.003 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.003 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.6 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 7.5 %
Bitterness: 14.0 IBUs Calories: 196.4 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 3.6 SRM

Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 12 lbs 6.0 oz
Sparge Water: 5.47 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F Tun Temperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.35

Mash Steps
 

Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 12.55 qt of water at 162.6 F 148.0 F 75 min
Sparge Step: Batch sparge with 4 steps (Drain mash tun, , 1.82gal, 1.82gal, 1.82gal) of 168.0 F water
Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).

Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Bottle Volumes of CO2: 2.3
Pressure/Weight: 4.71 oz Carbonation Used: Bottle with 4.71 oz Corn Sugar
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 70.0 F Age for: 30.00 days
Fermentation: Ale, Two Stage Storage Temperature: 65.0 F

Notes

Created with BeerSmith

Real Decals

She is done.  Again, Chris comes H. through.  He did a great job cutting my vinyl for me.  I understand he had a couple hicups with his new cutter and the large rolls of black and silver.  I sent him the files to be cut last Friday, he had them cut by Wednesday.  I’ve been putting them on for the last two days.

I used Window cleaner to let them slide, but I think I wouldn’t use it again.  It seems to weaken the adhesive if its too thick.  It works ok if you spray it very lightly, and spray onto the decal.  But, if you go too heavy or spray onto the body it seems to compromise the adhesive and it never quite recovers.  I did the “MAZDASPEED” decal on the bumper first, and I sprayed the windex “heavy” directly on the hood.  This morning after 24 hours the decal was still so loose that I could move it around with one finger.  I tried heating it up and letting it cool, but it just never stuck.  Luckily, I had a second one….so, I just applied that one without any windex.

I think it looks pretty darn close to my digital test run: Decals.

I created all these graphics personally using Inkscape.  Then I sent the files (one per color) to Chris for cutting.  The numbers are simply “Arial Black” font draw large, and then thickened and thinned to create the outline and the inner number.

P1010115

Continue reading Real Decals