Miscellaneous collection of information

At the moment this is just sort of a collection of random links, and other bits of info I’ve collected but don’t really have a good place to put them.  I don’t want to forget any of these.  So here they are:

Gages, Instruments, data-Acq

http://www.rumblestripracing.com/

Track commander

Traqmate

AiM

Racepak G2X

Links not added to link list, yet:

http://wbrgraphics.com/

http://www.waltermotorsports.com/v/Racing/hub/

http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?/topic/44/2361.html#000014

http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/essentials/fixit/heeltoe/shifting.htm

http://www.springmountainmotorsports.com/2009/04/28/heel-toe-driving-tips-part-2/

http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/horsepower

http://www.racebolt.com/

http://www.racebolts.com/

http://www.probolt-usa.com/

http://www.car-part.com/

http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?/topic/3/70.html

Brake Caliper rebuild procedure

They have kits for all the way around. You need compressed air to remove the piston. Basically, put the gun in the brake line hole and blow air in. Put a 2×4 in the caliper, so that the piston doesn’t fly across the garage. Be very careful, they tend to “pop” out (you can hardly see scar on my right middle finger any more).
Crack the brake line while the caliper is on the car. If you have the old lines, cut em in half, put a screw in the cut end, and then attach to the open brake line to stop fluid from dripping everywhere.
If the cylinder is not bad, you can use a scotchbrite pad, otherwise you need a 2 prong hone. 3 prong is usually too big. Don’t hone a lot, or the seal won’t be tight. Use brakeclean, and make sure to let everything dry
Lube the seal to get the piston back in (some kits include a sort of vaseoline, wear gloves.
Use a torch on the bleeder bolt if it is stuck, don’t use too small of an easy out once it breaks off (don’t ask again).
I put new ones on the front, and carry the old ones rebuilt as spares.

The front rebuild kit is part # NAY1-33-24Z and sells for $14.35.
The rear rebuild kit is part # NAY1-26-46ZB and sells for $25.15.


Jim Daniels “You car must roll Free” posting:

THIS IS CLEANING UP!
I’m servicing the following parts for your Runoffs quality SM.
Front and rear hubs
CVJs – balls, cages and the actual shaft
Diff – Ring and Pinion plus Torsen gears
(if your car has them)
Transmission – “Best bang for the buck”
All the gears, main shaft and counter shaft, clutch hubs and the rods that the shift forks ride on. (roughly 37 pieces)
Most cars in the tech shed have this service done. So, not much in the way of rules change is going to happen. You should have this prep too, now you can. This feels like 3-5ish HP gain (fish scale stuff, lower lap times).
Email or call me for details.
jim@jimdaniels.com
901-351-8494

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